Chez Juliette, Juan-les-Pins
Tucked on Rue de l'Oratoire in the heart of Juan-les-Pins, Chez Juliette is the kind of unpretentious Niçois bistro that regulars guard jealously — chickpea socca from the wood-fired pan, salade niçoise made with proper oil-cured tuna, and a carafe of Bellet rosé for under €30 a head.
What to order
The socca arrives blistered and steaming, cut into rough wedges and seasoned with black pepper — eat it immediately with your fingers as the locals do. Follow it with the pan bagnat, the Niçois pressed sandwich of tuna, anchovies, egg, olives and basil-soaked bread, which is arguably the best fast food on the Riviera.
For a fuller meal, the daube de boeuf niçoise — beef braised with olives, orange zest and red wine — is a slow-cooked masterclass. It appears on the menu in cooler months and is worth timing your visit around.
The neighbourhood around it
Rue de l'Oratoire and the surrounding pedestrian streets form the local eating quarter of Juan-les-Pins, distinct from the tourist-facing boulevard restaurants. After dinner, the same streets fill with a younger crowd heading to the jazz bars and clubs that have defined the town's nightlife since the 1950s.
The walk back along the promenade at night — pine trees lit from below, the sea invisible but audible — is one of those simple Riviera pleasures that costs nothing and stays with you.
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