Antibes Old Town (Vieil Antibes)
Just a 15-minute walk or a two-minute train hop from Juan-les-Pins, the honey-stoned ramparts of Vieil Antibes enclose a labyrinth of narrow streets, flower-draped balconies and one of the best covered markets on the Riviera.
Exploring the old town
Enter through the Porte de l'Orme and follow Rue Aubernon into the heart of the old town, where pastel shutters, bougainvillea and the smell of fresh bread create an almost theatrical version of Provençal life. The Picasso Museum, housed in the 14th-century Château Grimaldi where the artist worked in 1946, is unmissable — its collection of Picasso's Antibes-period works is unique in the world.
The old town's sea-facing ramparts offer a free, unobstructed view over the Baie des Anges towards the Alps — on clear days the snow-capped peaks float above the horizon like a mirage.
Marché Provençal
The Marché Provençal on Cours Masséna operates every morning except Monday (Tuesday to Sunday, 6 am–1 pm, June to September; closed Monday and reduced hours in winter). Stalls groan with tapenade, lavender honey, socca, fresh chèvre, Menton lemons and cut flowers — this is the real provisioning market of the Riviera, not a tourist trinket fair.
Arrive before 9 am to shop alongside local chefs and residents. Pick up olives, a wedge of tomme de Provence and a bunch of basil for a perfect picnic on the ramparts.
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