Mer de Glace & Montenvers Railway
The Mer de Glace is France's largest glacier, a slow-moving river of ancient ice that stretches nearly seven kilometres beneath the jagged Grandes Jorasses. A vintage rack-and-pinion train from Chamonix's Montenvers station delivers you to the edge of this frozen world in under 20 minutes.
The Glacier Up Close
From the Montenvers terrace you look down on a cracked, blue-veined expanse of ice that has been sculpting this valley for millennia. A series of metal staircases — the number of steps increases every year as the glacier retreats — leads you right onto the ice and into a carved ice cave illuminated with coloured lights.
Depth markers painted on the rock face show exactly how far the glacier surface has dropped since the 1800s, making this one of the most visceral climate-change exhibits on the planet. It is sobering and spectacular in equal measure.
Planning Your Visit
The Montenvers train departs from central Chamonix, about 8 km from Les Houches, making it an easy half-day excursion. Combine it with the attached natural history museum and the small colony of bouquetins (Alpine ibex) that lounge fearlessly on the rocks above the station.
Wear sturdy shoes and bring a mid-layer even in July — the air around the glacier is noticeably cold and the metal staircases can be slippery. Early morning departures reward you with softer light and thinner crowds.
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