Food & drink · Lastres

El Barrigón de Bertín

Tucked into the lower village just a short walk from the harbour, El Barrigón de Bertín has built a fierce local reputation on one thing above all others: the anchovies of the Cantabrian Sea, cured in-house and served with nothing more than good olive oil and crusty bread.

El Barrigón de Bertín
Photo by Fotografías de El Puerto de Santa María on Pexels

What to Order

The anchoa del Cantábrico here is plump, mahogany-coloured and intensely savoury without being salty — order a ración as a starter alongside a glass of chilled Albariño or a poured Asturian sidra and you will understand immediately why this coastline is famous for them.

Beyond anchovies the kitchen excels at whatever the boats brought in that morning: spider crab (centollo) dressed simply in its own shell, grilled turbot with local potatoes, and a clam and white bean stew that is one of the most comforting dishes in Asturias.

Atmosphere and Booking

The dining room is small, warm and unpretentious — tiled walls, paper tablecloths, a blackboard menu that changes daily — and the service is the kind of cheerful no-nonsense hospitality that makes you want to stay for another round of drinks.

Reservations are strongly recommended in July and August when the restaurant fills by 2 pm; in shoulder season you can often walk in, but calling ahead is always wise.

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