Trattoria Buca di San Lorenzo
Down a narrow lane inside the Medici walls, this no-frills trattoria has been feeding Grossetani on honest Maremman cooking for decades — the kind of place where the menu changes with the season and the house wine arrives in a ceramic jug.
What to Order
Start with a plate of mixed crostini — chicken liver, black truffle paste, lardo — then move to the acquacotta, a peasant soup of stale bread, wild herbs and egg that is one of the Maremma's signature dishes and rarely found outside the region.
For a secondo, the wild boar ragu over pappardelle is a benchmark version: slow-cooked with juniper and red wine until the meat collapses into something deeply savoury and almost silky.
The Atmosphere and When to Go
The room is small, the tables close together, and the noise level rises cheerfully as the evening progresses — book ahead for Friday and Saturday dinner, when locals fill every seat.
Lunch is quieter and often better value: a two-course menu with wine and water for around €15 is not unusual on weekday afternoons, making it one of the best-value honest meals in Tuscany.
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