Lou Fassum at Restaurant La Bastide Saint-Antoine
Lou fassum is Grasse's own stuffed cabbage — a whole savoy cabbage filled with rice, herbs, pork and peas, slow-cooked in broth until silky — and the finest version in the region is served at Jacques Chibois's two-Michelin-star La Bastide Saint-Antoine on the Avenue Henri Dunant. The setting, a 18th-century bastide surrounded by ancient olive trees, is as memorable as the food.
The Dish and the Chef
Jacques Chibois has been championing Grassois cuisine since 1996 and his lou fassum is a masterclass in restraint: the cabbage is tied into a perfect sphere using a traditional fassumiè net mould, then served with a consommé so clear you can read the porcelain through it.
The menu changes with the seasons and the local market — in truffle season (December–February) expect shavings of Périgord black truffle over almost everything, paired with wines from the restaurant's 25,000-bottle cellar.
The Setting and Booking
The terraced garden, shaded by 400-year-old olive trees and perfumed by the kitchen garden's herbs, is one of the most beautiful restaurant terraces in Provence; lunch on the terrace on a May afternoon is a near-religious experience.
Reserve at least three weeks ahead for weekend dinner in summer — the restaurant is a destination for visitors from Cannes and Nice and tables go fast. The lunch menu offers significantly better value than dinner without compromising on quality.
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