Must-see · Spello

Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica

Spello's crown jewel hides one of the finest Renaissance fresco cycles in all of Umbria — painted by Bernardino di Betto, known as Pinturicchio, in 1501. Step through an unassuming Romanesque façade and find yourself face to face with colours so vivid they look freshly applied.

Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica
Photo by Jocelyn Erskine-Kellie on Pexels
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The Baglioni Chapel

The Cappella Baglioni, just off the left nave, contains the triptych that made Pinturicchio's reputation: the Annunciation, the Nativity and Christ among the Doctors, all framed by a trompe-l'œil border studded with self-portraits and symbolic flowers.

Look for the artist's own face peering out from a painted window in the Annunciation scene — a cheeky Renaissance selfie that art historians still debate. The floor beneath your feet is original medieval majolica tile, equally worth a slow look.

Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica
Photo by Osviel Rodriguez Valdés

The Rest of the Church

Beyond the chapel, seek out a marble holy-water stoup carved by Rocco da Vicenza and a gilded wooden ceiling that catches the afternoon light filtering through narrow windows.

The church sits on Piazza Matteotti, the social heart of the old town, so combine your visit with a coffee at the bar across the square and watch Spello's unhurried daily life unfold.

Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica
Photo by Osviel Rodriguez Valdés
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