Trattoria Il Frantoio
Tucked into a narrow lane just off Piazza Garibaldi, Il Frantoio is the kind of family-run trattoria that Lerici locals actually eat in — paper tablecloths, handwritten menus that change with the catch, and a wine list built around bottles from the nearby Colli di Luni DOC. It is the antidote to the overpriced tourist restaurants lining the waterfront.
What to order
Start with the acciughe al limone — raw anchovies cured in lemon juice and local olive oil, a dish so simple and so perfect it needs nothing else. Follow with trofie al pesto, the short twisted pasta that is Liguria's signature shape, made in-house and tossed with basil pesto ground in a marble mortar rather than a blender — you can taste the difference.
For a main course, the baccalà alla Ligurian style (salt cod braised with olives, pine nuts and white wine) is outstanding when it appears on the menu, as is the grilled branzino caught that morning in the gulf. Leave room for the torta della nonna, a custard-filled shortcrust tart dusted with pine nuts and icing sugar.
Practical details
The restaurant seats only about 30 covers across two small rooms, so booking ahead — even just a few hours in advance by phone — is strongly advised in July and August. In shoulder season you can often walk in at lunch and find a table without trouble.
Prices are honest: a full three-course lunch with house wine comes in well under €40 per person, which by Ligurian coastal standards represents exceptional value for the quality on the plate.
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