Trattoria Il Frantoio, Lerici
Tucked just off the waterfront on Via Cavour, Il Frantoio is the kind of place where the menu changes because the fishing boats came back with something unexpected, not because a chef has been to a conference. Regulars have been occupying the same tables since the 1980s.
What to order
Start with the acciughe marinate — local anchovies cured in lemon and olive oil — which arrive glistening and sharp, nothing like the tinned version you know. Follow with trofie al pesto made with Ligurian basil and Ligurian pine nuts; the difference between this and the stuff served in tourist traps is not subtle.
For a main, the fritto misto di pesce is the definitive test of any Ligurian kitchen and Il Frantoio's version — squid rings, tiny red mullet, whitebait and a few shrimp — arrives in a paper cone, barely battered, greaseless and timed to the minute.
The setting and the bill
The dining room is small, the tablecloths are paper, and the house Vermentino comes in a ceramic jug. None of this is accidental: the owners have resisted every temptation to renovate into blandness, understanding that atmosphere here is made of noise and honesty, not interior design.
A full meal with wine lands at around €30–38 per person, which for this quality represents one of the better-value restaurant experiences on the entire Italian Riviera. Book ahead for Friday and Saturday dinner in July and August — locals fill it fast.
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