Food & drink · Kaysersberg

Winstub Au Lion d'Or

Tucked into a 16th-century half-timbered building on Rue du Général de Gaulle, Au Lion d'Or is the kind of winstub — Alsace's beloved wine-tavern format — where locals actually eat rather than perform for tourists. Expect heaped portions of choucroute garnie, baeckeoffe and house-made foie gras beside a rotating list of Alsatian producers poured by the glass.

Winstub Au Lion d'Or
Photo by Jean-Paul Wettstein on Pexels

What to order

The baeckeoffe — a slow-braised casserole of pork, lamb and beef layered with potatoes and Pinot Blanc — is sealed in the traditional luting-paste crust and arrives at the table still bubbling. It must be ordered 24 hours in advance, which is a perfect excuse to plan your Kaysersberg itinerary around the meal.

For a lighter option, the flammekueche (tarte flambée) with lardons, crème fraîche and caramelised onion comes out of the wood oven blistered and crisp at the edges — pair it with a glass of Sylvaner from the chalkboard list.

The winstub atmosphere

Bare wooden tables, painted ceramic stove tiles and low beams strung with dried hops create the quintessential Alsatian interior that interior designers spend fortunes trying to recreate. In winter, a tiled kachelofe (ceramic stove) radiates warmth into the room.

Service is unhurried and bilingual (French and German), and the owner often stops to recommend a specific producer from the wine list — a small gesture that makes the meal feel genuinely personal.

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