Winstub Au Bœuf
Tucked on Rue de la Redoute in the heart of the old town, Au Bœuf is the kind of wood-panelled winstub that Alsatians fiercely protect from tourist itineraries — a place where the choucroute garnie arrives in a cast-iron pan and the Pinot Gris comes from a producer three villages away.
What to Order
The choucroute garnie royale is the non-negotiable opener: a mountain of slow-braised sauerkraut buried under smoked pork belly, Strasbourg sausage, knack and a salted ham hock, served with floury boiled potatoes that absorb every drop of Riesling from the braise.
Follow it with the tarte flambée (Flammekueche) if you have room — the version here uses crème fraîche from a local dairy and lardons cut thick enough to justify calling it a meal on their own.
The Winstub Atmosphere
The interior hasn't changed much since the 1970s: dark timber booths, hunting trophies, a zinc bar and a chalkboard menu that shifts with the seasons and the chef's mood. Lunch service is brisk and communal; don't be surprised if you're seated next to a table of local councillors debating hop subsidies.
Ask the patron about the wine list — he sources directly from small Alsatian domaines and will happily open a half-bottle of Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives if you show genuine curiosity.
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