Marché de Terrasson (Thursday Morning Market)
Every Thursday morning the Place du Foirail and surrounding streets fill with stalls run by local producers selling walnut oil, foie gras, seasonal vegetables and the region's obsessive variety of cheeses. It is a working market for locals first and a visitor experience second — which is precisely what makes it so good.
What to look for
The Dordogne's holy trinity of foie gras, walnuts and truffles (in season, November–February) are all represented here at prices well below those at the more tourist-heavy markets in Sarlat or Périgueux. Look for the stalls selling confits and rillettes in hand-labelled jars — these are typically small-farm producers rather than industrial brands.
In summer the market overflows with tomatoes, haricots verts, melons from the Quercy border and wild mushrooms foraged from the surrounding oak forests. A handful of artisan bread bakers set up near the church, and their sourdough loaves sell out by 11:00.
Eating and drinking at the market
Several of the café-bars around the square open their terraces early and serve simple market breakfasts — a café crème, a tartine with local butter and jam, perhaps a glass of Bergerac rosé if you are feeling festive. It is a deeply pleasant way to spend a Thursday morning in summer.
The market wraps up around 12:30, after which the square empties with remarkable speed. If you want the best selection of produce, arrive before 10:00; if you want the most atmospheric, unhurried experience, come at 11:30 when vendors start to bargain down prices.
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