Le Panier-Style Vieux-Nice (Old Town)
The old town of Nice — a tight labyrinth of narrow streets between Cours Saleya and Castle Hill — is one of the most architecturally coherent historic centres on the French Riviera, its seven-storey facades painted in the deep ochres, burnt siennas and dusty pinks of the Italian Baroque tradition.
Key Streets & Facades
Rue Droite is the old town's spine: walk it slowly and look up at the elaborately carved stone doorways, the wrought-iron lanterns and the trompe-l'œil painted window frames that are a Niçois speciality. At number 15, the Palais Lascaris (17th century) is open as a free museum of Baroque art and antique musical instruments — an extraordinary interior hiding behind an unremarkable street door.
Rue du Jésus and Rue de la Poissonnerie are quieter and even more atmospheric, lined with tiny épiceries selling local olive oil and the pungent anchovy paste called pissalat that flavours pissaladière, the Niçois answer to pizza.
Eating & Drinking Like a Local
For a proper Niçois lunch, head to Chez Palmyre on Rue Droite — a no-menu, set-price lunch spot that has been feeding the neighbourhood for generations. Arrive at noon sharp; it fills in minutes. The food is simple, seasonal and exactly what a local grandmother would cook.
For an aperitif, the tiny wine bars on Place du Jésus pour local Bellet AOC wine — produced in the hills just north of Nice and almost impossible to find outside the city. A glass of white Bellet with a dish of olives is the perfect Niçois ritual.
Architecture & Hidden Courtyards
Push open any heavy wooden door left ajar on Rue Droite or Rue Rossetti and you'll likely find a cool internal courtyard with a stone staircase spiralling upward — residents are generally tolerant of curious visitors who don't linger.
Place Rossetti at the heart of the old town is anchored by the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate, a 17th-century Baroque church with a glazed-tile dome visible from Castle Hill. The square in front is lined with gelato shops; Fenocchio, operating since 1966, makes over 100 flavours including lavender, violet and black olive.
More of Nice
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Nice →
