Marché de Dijon — Les Halles Centrales
Victor Hugo called the covered market of Dijon 'the most beautiful market in France', and the iron-and-glass Halles Centrales — designed by Gustave Eiffel's firm in 1875 — still earns that title every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday morning. Come hungry, leave laden.
A Cathedral of Burgundian Produce
Under the soaring metal canopy, some 200 stalls overflow with everything that makes Burgundian cuisine legendary: wheels of Époisses and Cîteaux cheese, ropes of garlic, jars of Fallot stone-ground mustard, snails in garlic butter, pain d'épices (spiced honey bread) and bottles of Gevrey-Chambertin at cellar prices.
Saturday is the grandest day, when farmers from the Côte d'Or and the Morvan plateau bring seasonal produce — wild mushrooms in autumn, white asparagus in spring, fat Charolais beef cuts year-round. Arrive before 09:00 to beat the crowds and catch the best selection.
Eating and Drinking at the Market
Several stalls double as stand-up bars. Pull up a stool at Chez Simone or one of the charcuterie counters for a glass of Aligoté and a slice of jambon persillé — the parsley-flecked terrine that is Dijon's unofficial brunch dish.
The surrounding Rue Bannelier and Rue Musette are lined with specialist food shops that spill onto the pavement on market days, turning the whole quarter into an edible street fair. Pick up a jar of Maille mustard direct from the Maille boutique two minutes away on Rue de la Liberté.
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