Chez Gérard — Truffade & Aligot
Tucked on Rue Saint-Adjutor in the old town, Chez Gérard has been pulling strings of elastic aligot tableside since the 1980s, making it the most honest address in Clermont-Ferrand for the two great potato-and-cheese dishes of the Auvergne. It is loud, convivial and entirely without pretension — exactly right.
The Dishes You Must Order
Truffade is the simpler of the two: sliced potatoes pan-fried in lard until golden, then folded with fresh Cantal curd until the cheese melts into long, glossy ribbons. It arrives in a cast-iron pan still bubbling and is traditionally eaten with a green salad and a glass of Côtes d'Auvergne rouge.
Aligot — the more theatrical dish — is mashed potato beaten with butter, crème fraîche and vast quantities of young Cantal (tome fraîche) until it becomes a smooth, elastic, almost fondue-like mass. The waiter lifts it on a wooden spoon to show you the stretch before serving. Order the half-portion unless you are very hungry.
Practical Notes for Your Visit
The restaurant seats around 40 covers across two rooms; the front room with its chalkboard menu and tiled floor is the more atmospheric. Reservations are strongly recommended for Friday and Saturday evenings — the place fills by 19:30 and does not take walk-ins after 20:00.
The wine list is short but well chosen, with three or four Côtes d'Auvergne producers represented. The Boudes Gamay is the local red to try — light, peppery and surprisingly food-friendly with rich cheese dishes.
More of Clermont-Ferrand
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Clermont-Ferrand →
