Mercato di Piazza Castello
Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, Piazza Castello and the surrounding streets fill with stalls piled high with mountain cheeses, wild mushrooms, honeys, fresh pasta and seasonal vegetables grown in the Valbelluna valley. It's the most honest snapshot of local life you'll find in Belluno.
What to buy
Look for Schiz, a fresh cow's-milk cheese typical of the Belluno area, sold in small rounds and best eaten grilled — vendors will often let you taste before you buy. Alongside it you'll find aged Piave DOP cheese at various stages of maturity, from Fresco (20 days) to Vecchio (over 180 days).
In autumn the mushroom stalls are extraordinary: porcini, finferli (chanterelles) and ovoli (Caesar's mushrooms) piled in wicker baskets, sold by weight. Bring cash — most stalls don't accept cards.
The market atmosphere
The market is entirely local in character; you're unlikely to hear much English here, which is part of its charm. Bellunesi shop here for their weekly groceries, and conversations between neighbours stretch across stalls in the Belluno dialect.
After shopping, follow the locals to Bar Miari on Via Mezzaterra for a mid-morning ombra (small glass of white wine) and a tramezzino — the classic Venetian sandwich, done well even this far north.
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