Piazza Napoleone (Piazza Grande)
Stand at the center of Piazza Napoleone on a late afternoon and you'll notice two things at once: the long facade of the Palazzo Ducale turning gold in the western light, and the sycamore trees along the perimeter casting the kind of dappled shade that makes people slow down. This is Lucca's largest square, and it carries its scale lightly.
Look down near the piazza's edge and you'll find glass blocks set into the paving stones — beneath them, the excavated foundations of buildings that were cleared away when Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi remade this space in 1806. The square holds its past underfoot, literally.
💛 What travellers fall for
People who return tend to arrive in the early evening, when the Palazzo Ducale's loggia catches the last of the light and the piazza fills with locals rather than tour groups. In July, check whether the Lucca Summer Festival has the stage up — the open-air concerts draw thousands, and the atmosphere changes the square entirely. In December, a small ice rink appears.
The story behind Piazza Napoleone (Piazza Grande)
The ground beneath Piazza Napoleone has been contested since 1322, when the Ghibelline condottiero Castruccio Castracani built the Augusta Fortress here. The people of Lucca tore it down when he was expelled in 1370. Paolo Guinigi later rebuilt on the ruins as the Cittadella di Lucca, and that too was partially demolished after his fall in 1429.
The square as it looks today is largely the work of Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, Napoleon's sister, who ruled the Principality of Lucca from 1805 to 1815 and commissioned architects Giovanni Lazzarini and Pierre-Théodore Bienaimé to reshape the space in 1806. After the Congress of Vienna restored order, Maria Luisa, Duchess of Lucca, brought in Lorenzo Nottolini to renovate the Palazzo Ducale; the monument at the square's center, a statue of Maria Luisa di Borbone by sculptor Lorenzo Bartolini, was installed in 1843.
Good to know
Entry to the piazza is free and it's open around the clock. From Lucca railway station it's a ten-minute walk through the city walls. Bus lines 5, LAM Blu and LAM Verde stop at the northwestern corner. Budget 20–40 minutes for a wander; more if there's a market or festival on.
Summers in Lucca are warm and dry, which suits the open piazza well — though midday in July can be genuinely hot, especially during festival crowds. Spring and autumn bring mild temperatures and softer light; winter is quiet and cool, with the December ice rink adding a different kind of life to the square.
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What travellers say about Piazza Napoleone (Piazza Grande)
A tree lined plaza. Perfect place to find an adjoining lunch spot. Very well kept.
Piazza Napoleone in Lucca is a vibrant and spacious square that perfectly blends history and festivity. When I visited, the piazza was transformed into a magical Christmas festival, complete with twinkling lights, festive stalls, and a warm holiday atmosphere. The charming market offered unique gifts, delicious treats, and local crafts, making it a delightful experience for all ages. The towering trees adorned with decorations added to the enchantment, and the lively energy of visitors created a cheerful ambiance. Surrounded by Lucca's historic architecture, Piazza Napoleone during the holidays is truly a memorable experience that captures the spirit of the season.
Lucca, a beautiful gem in the Tuscan region of Italy, is a beautiful and unique destination. Handsome Renaissance walls that surround the historic city centre with treed -lined walkways perfect for a morning stroll. There are beautiful churches and cathedrals to visit as well as some incredible Trattorias and cafes to sit and enjoy an espresso. A must visit if you're in Tuscany. Easily accessible by train from Florence and Pisa.
Nice central place to come for a bit of shade and a bite to eat. Public toilet close by. Seating around the square and a good selection of cafes, gelato and sandwiches
a beautiful church and a particularly interesting story about the columns on it... the government at that time announced a competition for the construction of columns... many people applied... but the government did not choose anyone but took all the submitted works... that's why all the columns are different ..and of course they didn't pay anyone
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