Palaestra (Sports Ground)
Walk into the Palaestra and the scale stops you: a rectangular open ground roughly 105 by 70 metres, framed on three sides by fluted Corinthian columns and on the fourth by a cryptoporticus that once held a spectators' terrace above. At the centre, a cruciform pool stretches its arms — one nearly 50 metres long — and in the middle of it all stood a giant bronze serpent coiled around a tree, water once jetting from its five crowned heads.
This was where Herculaneum's young men trained — running, wrestling, throwing the discus, swimming. The barrel-vaulted vestibule overhead is still frescoed with coloured stars. Part of the complex remains unexcavated, which means what you're seeing is only a portion of what was here.
💛 What travellers fall for
People who've visited more than once tend to arrive early, before the light flattens. The pool basin reads better in low morning sun, and the colonnade throws long shadows that make the scale easier to grasp. The apsidal prize-giving room at one end is easy to miss — worth slowing down for.
The story behind Palaestra (Sports Ground)
The Palaestra was built at public expense during the reign of Augustus, with the main structure dating to roughly 30–10 BCE. The archaeologist Amedeo Maiuri, excavating around 1936, placed its construction in the early Augustan period, though the decorative programme came later — probably under Claudius or Nero.
It served not only as a sports ground but as a school and a place of worship, the kind of civic institution that Roman towns of this size were expected to provide. When Vesuvius buried Herculaneum in 79 CE, the Palaestra was sealed with everything else. Excavation has never been completed, and sections of it still lie beneath the modern town above.
Good to know
Reach Ercolano Scavi station on the Circumvesuviana line and walk to the main entrance at Corso Resina 187. Tickets cost €16 (reduced to €2 for EU citizens 18–25), with free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Bring water — there are no facilities once you're inside the ruins. Bags over 30x30x15 cm are not admitted.
Late April through May and September through October give you comfortable temperatures for a site that sits open to the sky. The ruins sit below modern street level, which provides some shelter from wind, and sunny days feel warmer down here than the air temperature suggests. Midsummer can be punishing in the open ground with little shade.
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I was truly surprised by this arena! The Naples area, both the province and the city, isn't particularly blessed with arenas, but this one really stands out! It's new, clean, well-equipped, and attractive, making it stand out from the rest. It's well-divided, and the locker rooms are worthy of the name. The only drawback is that it's a bit small, and the lack of a large internal parking lot is noticeable.
An excellent place to spend evenings with friends. I've personally only used the volleyball courts, which are well-equipped, with safe flooring and are kept in excellent condition. All the court supplies are kept in excellent condition. There's a corner where you can purchase cold drinks. Furthermore, the managers are very helpful in case of an injury, which they promptly address with dry ice or spray. If you're a few minutes late, you can make up for it later without anyone causing any problems. Whenever possible, they let customers and their scooters park inside, especially in the evening. Highly recommended!
Clean, well-equipped, and well-organized sports facility. Impeccable introductory sports course with a fantastic instructor for children ages 3-5.
For twenty years, this facility has been my second home, but it's the students and their wonderful parents who make it special. Teaching here isn't just work, it's a love that's renewed every day. We grow together, we dream, we live. Thank you for being my inspiration every day. I dedicate everything to you! 🌈 A special thanks also to the managers for their commitment and the changes they've made, which contribute to making this place increasingly welcoming and functional.
Esperienza positiva e coinvolgente... finalmente sono riuscita a trovare un ambiente simpatico nel corso di ginnastica del benessere...insegnante e staff sempre molto disponibili!!! 🤸🤞💪
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