Trattoria Dinette — Colatura di Alici
Colatura di alici — a translucent amber liquid pressed from salted anchovies aged in chestnut barrels — is the Amalfi Coast's most ancient condiment, and Vietri sul Mare's trattorias are the ideal place to taste it in its purest form: tossed warm through spaghetti with garlic, parsley and a thread of good olive oil. Trattoria Dinette on Via Costiera is one of the most honest kitchens in town for t
What Is Colatura di Alici?
Colatura is essentially the direct descendant of Roman garum — the fermented fish sauce that fuelled an empire — and is still produced by hand in the nearby fishing village of Cetara, just 6 km along the coast. A few drops transform a simple pasta into something deeply savoury and oceanic without tasting fishy.
The production process takes up to three years: fresh anchovies caught in spring are layered with sea salt in small chestnut barrels called terzigni, pressed under a wooden disc, and the liquid that slowly seeps out is bottled at the end of November in a small local ceremony.
Eating It in Vietri
Trattoria Dinette keeps its menu tight and seasonal — the spaghetti alla colatura is a permanent fixture, served with good local Campanian white wine such as Fiano di Avellino or a crisp Falanghina. The fritto misto di paranza (mixed fried small fish) and grilled totani (flying squid) are equally reliable.
Tables spill onto a narrow terrace above the sea road; arrive at 12:30 when the kitchen opens to secure a window seat before the lunch rush fills every chair.
Buying Colatura to Take Home
Small bottles of colatura (30–100 ml) are sold at several alimentari on Corso Umberto I and directly from producers in Cetara — a 10-minute bus ride from Vietri on the SITA Sud coastal service. Nettuno and Armatore are the two most respected Cetara producers; both sell direct from their workshops.
A 100 ml bottle costs roughly €8–12 and travels easily in checked luggage; it keeps for up to two years unopened and elevates any pasta, salad dressing or grilled vegetable at home.
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