Varenna Old Town & Passeggiata Riva Bastiani
Varenna's old town is one of the least touristy villages on Lake Como — a tightly woven maze of salmon-pink and ochre houses, narrow covered passages called contrade, and a lakefront promenade so narrow in places that the water practically laps your ankles. An hour of aimless wandering here feels like a genuine Italian discovery.
The Contrade and the Piazza
Start at Piazza San Giorgio, the hilltop square anchored by the 14th-century Church of San Giorgio with its faded fresco facade, and let the lanes lead you downhill through arched passageways draped in bougainvillea.
The village is tiny — fewer than 800 residents — so you will quickly find yourself at the waterfront, where fishing boats bob beside geranium-hung balconies in scenes unchanged for decades.
The Lakeside Promenade
The Passeggiata Riva Bastiani hugs the shoreline south of the ferry dock and is one of the most romantic short walks in Italy — a narrow stone path cantilevered over the water, connecting the village to the gardens of Villa Monastero.
In the evening, locals and visitors alike stroll this stretch at dusk; the lights of Bellagio twinkle across the water and the air smells of jasmine and fresh water.
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