Riberas del Río Erjas y Ladronera
The Río Erjas forms the natural border between Spain and Portugal for much of its length, and the stretch below Valencia de Alcántara is a strikingly beautiful river corridor of granite boulders, deep green pools and riparian forest draped in oleander. In summer it's one of the finest wild-swimming spots in all of Extremadura.
The River and Its Landscape
The Erjas runs cold and clear even in July, fed by springs in the Sierra de San Pedro, and its pools — locally called pozas — are deep enough to dive from the surrounding boulders. The riverbanks are shaded by alder, ash and the brilliant pink flowers of wild oleander, which bloom extravagantly from June through August and make the whole gorge look tropical.
The area is part of the protected natural space Riberas del Río Erjas y Ladronera, which means the habitat is well managed and the water quality is consistently good. You'll share the river with kingfishers, otters (patient observers are rewarded) and the occasional grey heron standing motionless in the shallows.
Getting There and What to Bring
The most popular access point is via a dirt track signposted from the CV-110 road south of town, leading to a small parking area from which a short path descends to the river. The walk down takes about 15 minutes and is straightforward but rocky, so wear shoes you don't mind getting wet.
Bring a picnic — there are no facilities at the river — and arrive before midday in summer to claim a flat boulder in the sun before the locals arrive for their afternoon swim. The combination of cold river water, hot granite and the smell of wild herbs in the heat is one of those simple pleasures that travel memories are made of.
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