Musée d'Art Moderne de Troyes
Housed in the Renaissance-era former Bishop's Palace beside the cathedral, this museum holds one of France's most surprising provincial art collections: over 2,000 works donated by Troyes-born textile magnates Pierre and Denise Lévy, including major paintings by Derain, Vlaminck, Soutine and Braque.
The Collection Highlights
The Fauvist holdings are exceptional — bold, colour-saturated canvases by André Derain and Maurice de Vlaminck that feel shockingly modern given the medieval surroundings. The Lévy collection also includes significant African and Oceanic art that directly influenced the Fauvist and Cubist movements, displayed in thoughtful dialogue with the paintings.
Chaïm Soutine's expressionist portraits and landscapes are another highlight, raw and emotionally charged works that are rarely seen in such depth outside Paris. Allow at least 90 minutes to do the collection justice.
The Building Itself
The 16th-century Bishop's Palace is a superb Renaissance building with a handsome courtyard. The contrast between the ornate stone architecture and the vivid 20th-century canvases inside creates a genuinely thrilling visual tension.
The museum is chronically undervisited compared to its quality, meaning you can often stand alone in front of a Derain or a Braque — a luxury that would be unthinkable in Paris.
More of Troyes
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Troyes →
