Bouchon Champenois — Andouillette à la Ficelle
No visit to Troyes is complete without eating andouillette à la ficelle in a proper bouchon — the city's name for its traditional bistros. Le Valentino and Aux Crieurs de Vin are the two most respected addresses for this uncompromising local dish, served sizzling from the grill with mustard and frites.
Understanding the Dish
Andouillette de Troyes is a coarse-textured sausage made from pork chitterlings and stomach, seasoned with mustard, onion and white wine. It has an assertive, barnyard aroma that locals consider a mark of authenticity — look for the AAAAA certification (Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentique), which guarantees traditional preparation.
The classic preparation is grilled until the skin blisters and crisps, then served with a sharp Dijon mustard sauce and a glass of still Aube Pinot Noir. The combination is greater than the sum of its parts.
Where to Eat
Aux Crieurs de Vin on Place Jean Jaurès is a beloved wine bar and bistro with a thoughtful Champagne and Aube wine list and an andouillette that earns consistent praise. The room is small, the atmosphere convivial, and reservations are strongly advised for Friday and Saturday evenings.
Le Valentino on Rue Paillot de Montabert is slightly more formal but equally committed to regional cooking. Their choucroute champenoise — sauerkraut braised in Champagne with local charcuterie — is another dish worth ordering if andouillette is a step too far.
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