Halles de Troyes (Les Halles)
Built in the 19th century and still buzzing every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday morning, the Halles de Troyes is where the city does its real food shopping. Andouillette sausages, local cheeses, farm eggs and bottles of Côte des Bar Champagne crowd the stalls in glorious abundance.
What to Buy and Taste
Troyes is the undisputed home of andouillette — the pungent, intensely flavoured tripe sausage that divides opinion but commands fierce local loyalty. Pick one up from a charcuterie stall and have it grilled on the spot; pair it with a glass of still Aube wine from the adjacent wine merchant.
Look for Chaource cheese, a creamy, slightly tangy AOC cheese produced just 30 km south of Troyes. Several stallholders sell it at different stages of ripeness so you can taste the difference between a young, milky wheel and a fully aged, earthy one.
The Market Atmosphere
Saturday is the biggest and most theatrical day, when farmers from the Aube countryside set up outside the hall along Rue Général de Gaulle, selling seasonal vegetables, honey, and homemade jams. Arrive before 9 am for the best choice and the most authentic atmosphere.
The iron-and-glass hall itself is a handsome piece of 19th-century market architecture worth pausing to appreciate. The light that filters through the roof on a bright morning makes the produce glow.
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