Osteria del Matto
Tucked into a vaulted medieval cellar just off Piazza della Libertà, Osteria del Matto has been feeding Spoletini and discerning visitors for decades with honest, ingredient-led Umbrian cooking. The menu changes with the seasons and the truffle dishes — particularly the strangozzi al tartufo nero — are the real reason to book a table.
What to order
Strangozzi is the thick, hand-rolled pasta native to Spoleto, with a satisfying chew that holds the earthy black truffle sauce beautifully. In autumn and winter, order it with fresh Tuber melanosporum; in summer the scorzone truffle is milder but still deeply flavoured.
Follow with the piccione alla ghiotta (wood pigeon braised with olives and capers) or the roast lamb with wild herbs — both are quintessentially Umbrian and prepared with produce sourced from farms in the surrounding hills.
The atmosphere and wine list
The low stone vaults, mismatched wooden furniture and a single candle on each table create exactly the kind of atmosphere you hope to find in a medieval Italian city. The room is small — around ten tables — so booking ahead is essential, especially at weekends.
The wine list focuses on Umbrian producers: look for a bottle of Montefalco Rosso from Arnaldo Caprai or a Trebbiano Spoletino from Cantina Novelli, the latter a local white grape variety that is quietly having a renaissance.
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