Marché de Saumur — Place Saint-Pierre
Every Saturday morning the square in front of the Romanesque church of Saint-Pierre fills with some 80 stalls selling the edible heart of Anjou: fat white asparagus in spring, Reinette apples in autumn, rillauds d'Anjou, local goat's cheeses and bottles of Saumur-Champigny straight from the producer. It is the kind of market that makes you wish you had a kitchen nearby.
What to Buy
The Loire Valley's sandy soils produce exceptional mushrooms — look for the cultivated champignons de Paris grown in the famous local cave networks, sold by the kilo still dusty with chalk. Alongside them you will find Anjou pears, locally made fouées (small bread rolls baked in wood-fired ovens) and jars of rillettes du Val de Loire that travel home beautifully.
Cheese lovers should head straight for the affineur who brings Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine (the long ash-rolled log with a rye straw through its centre) and creamy Selles-sur-Cher. Ask for a taste before you buy — vendors here expect it and enjoy the conversation.
Timing and Tips
The market runs from roughly 08:00 to 13:00; arrive before 09:30 for the best selection and a relaxed atmosphere before the town wakes up fully. The café-terrace of the Hôtel de Ville side of the square does strong espresso and warm croissants — perfect fuelling for a second lap.
A smaller Wednesday market occupies the same square with fewer stalls but less competition for the best produce. If your visit falls mid-week it is still well worth a detour.
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