Loire à Vélo — Saumur to Montsoreau Loop
The 20-kilometre ride east from Saumur to the village of Montsoreau follows the Loire à Vélo's most dramatic section: the river narrows, chalk cliffs rise on the south bank riddled with cave dwellings, herons stand motionless in the shallows, and the skyline is punctuated by the towers of Montsoreau's Renaissance château. It is flat, well-signed, almost entirely traffic-free and one of the finest
The Route
Leave Saumur via the Pont Cessart and pick up the signed Loire à Vélo path on the south bank heading east. The first 8 kilometres roll through the commune of Dampierre-sur-Loire, where the roadside is lined with cave-house entrances converted into wine cellars — many with hand-painted signs offering dégustation. Stop at Domaine Filliatreau in Chaintres for a glass of Saumur-Champigny poured straight from the barrel.
The path then enters the Parc Naturel Régional Loire-Anjou-Touraine, where the riverbank becomes wilder — sandbanks appear mid-stream, kingfishers dart between the willows, and you may spot sand martins nesting in the cliff face. The final kilometre into Montsoreau runs along a levée with the château framed perfectly ahead.
Extending the Day
Montsoreau itself merits at least an hour: the château houses a contemporary art museum (the collection of artist duo Pierre Huyghe and Philippe Parreno) and the village square has a handful of excellent café-restaurants where you can eat a platter of rillauds and drink a carafe of local red before cycling back.
For the return leg, cross to the north bank at Montsoreau and ride back through the vineyards of Turquant and Parnay — the views across to the tuffeau cliffs are completely different and equally beautiful.
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