Mercato di Santa Teresa Gallura
Every morning from June to September, the covered market on Via Maria Teresa fills with the colours and smells of northern Sardinia — sun-dried tomatoes, rounds of aged pecorino sardo, jars of mirto liqueur and baskets of just-picked figs. It is the best possible way to spend the first hour of a Sardinian morning.
What to Look For
The cheese stalls are the highlight: look for aged fiore sardo, a raw-milk pecorino with a smoky, complex flavour that bears no resemblance to the rubbery export version. Vendors are generous with tastings and happy to vacuum-pack a wedge for the journey home.
Honey is another speciality of the Gallura region — corbezzolo (strawberry tree) honey is intensely bitter and aromatic, completely unlike anything you will find outside Sardinia. Small-batch producers sell directly from their stalls and can tell you exactly which hillside their bees worked.
Beyond the Food
A handful of artisan stalls sell cork products — Santa Teresa sits in the heart of Sardinia's cork-oak country and you will find everything from stoppers to handbags made from the bark. Quality varies, so take your time.
The market winds down by noon, so arrive between 8 and 10 am for the best selection. A small bar at the entrance serves excellent espresso and warm sfoglie pastries filled with ricotta and honey — the ideal market breakfast.
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