Marché des Lices
Every Saturday morning, the vast Place des Lices disappears under a sea of striped awnings as Marché des Lices transforms it into arguably the most exciting food market in western France. Farmers, fishmongers, cheese affineurs and crêpe vendors jostle for space in a spectacle that has been running since the 17th century.
What to Hunt For
Arrive before 9 am to snag the best of the Breton oysters from Cancale, fat andouille sausages from Guémené, and wheels of Camembert-sized Brocciu that locals tuck under their arms like newspapers.
The indoor halles at the edge of the square house the cheese and charcuterie specialists — look for Ker Ronan butter, salted with fleur de sel de Guérande, which you can taste on a torn baguette right at the stall.
More Than Just Groceries
A ring of flower sellers, antique-book dealers and honey producers surrounds the food stalls, making it easy to spend three hours wandering without ever buying a vegetable.
Grab a galette-saucisse — a buckwheat crêpe wrapped around a grilled Breton sausage — from one of the street vendors and eat it standing up like every self-respecting local does.
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