Parc Naturel Régional de la Montagne de Reims
Just 15 kilometres south of Reims, a forested ridge rises above the Champagne plain and shelters some of the most celebrated grand cru vineyards on earth — but the park's strangest and most beguiling attraction is a grove of naturally twisted beech trees called faux de Verzy that look like something from a Brothers Grimm illustration.
The faux de Verzy: nature's oddest spectacle
Around 800 of these mutant beech trees (Fagus sylvatica tortuosa) grow in the forest near the village of Verzy, their trunks corkscrewing and their branches drooping in tortured arcs that create a low, cathedral-like canopy. Scientists still debate the precise genetic mechanism behind the mutation, which has been documented at this site since the 7th century.
A well-marked 3-kilometre loop trail (the Sentier des Faux) winds through the densest grove and takes about an hour at an easy pace. The light filtering through the contorted branches in early morning or after autumn rain is extraordinary — photographers routinely return multiple times.
Vineyards, viewpoints and villages
The ridge road (D26) that runs through Verzenay, Verzy and Bouzy passes a working windmill (the Moulin de Verzenay, now a quirky Champagne museum) and several belvederes where you can look north over a sea of vines toward the Reims skyline with the cathedral towers just visible on the horizon.
The village of Hautvillers, on the western flank of the park, is where Dom Pérignon is buried in the abbey church — a pilgrimage site for Champagne lovers. The main street is lined with ornate wrought-iron shop signs, a tradition that makes even a short stroll feel festive.
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