Sentier des Douaniers — Pointe de Gourmalon
The Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Officers' Path) is the coastal footpath that hugs the entire shoreline of Pornic, but the stretch from the Pointe de Gourmalon headland south towards the beach of La Birochère delivers the most spectacular open-sea panoramas on the entire Jade Coast. On a clear day you can see the Île de Noirmoutier floating on the horizon.
The Walk Itself
The path begins at the Pointe de Gourmalon, a rocky headland 1 km west of the château, where a small car park marks the trailhead. From here the GR®de Pays coastal trail drops through wind-sculpted pine groves and emerges onto clifftop ledges with unobstructed views south over the open Atlantic.
The 4 km loop to La Birochère beach and back takes around 90 minutes at a relaxed pace. The path is well-marked with yellow blazes and is suitable for older children, though some cliff-edge sections require care in wet weather.
What to Look For
In spring and early summer the clifftop heath blazes with yellow gorse and pink thrift (sea pinks), making the path one of the most photogenic stretches of coast in the Pays de la Loire. Bring binoculars: the rocky outcrops below the path are a reliable spot for grey herons, oystercatchers and, in autumn, migrating gannets diving offshore.
The concrete blockhouses embedded in the cliff are remnants of the German Atlantic Wall fortifications — a sobering counterpoint to the beauty of the landscape. Several have information panels in French explaining their wartime role.
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