Vuelta del Castillo & Ciudadela Ramparts
The star-shaped Ciudadela – a perfectly preserved 16th-century Philip II fortress – anchors the western edge of the old city, and the grassy moat path that circles it delivers the best 360-degree views of Pamplona's roofscape, the Arga valley and the Pyrenean foothills on clear days.
Walking the Ramparts
The Vuelta del Castillo is a 4.5-kilometre tree-lined promenade that traces the entire perimeter of the old city walls. Start at the Ciudadela's main gate on Avenida del Ejército and walk anti-clockwise to catch the afternoon light on the towers of the old cathedral.
The stretch above the Arga river gorge – between the Portal de Francia and the Molino de Caparroso – is the most dramatic. The walls drop sharply to the river 30 metres below, and on clear autumn mornings mist fills the valley while the city glows above it.
Inside the Ciudadela
The fortress interior is now a public park and contemporary arts venue. The Sala de Armas hosts free temporary exhibitions, and the central parade ground becomes an outdoor concert stage during San Fermín. Locals jog, picnic and walk dogs here every evening.
Look for the permanent sculpture collection scattered across the lawns – works by Jorge Oteiza and Eduardo Chillida, the two giants of Basque sculpture, sit casually among the trees as if they grew there.
Best Times to Visit
Sunset from the north-west bastion in October and November is spectacular: the Pyrenees turn pink and the city lights begin to flicker on below you. Bring a jacket – the elevation creates a reliable breeze.
The Ciudadela is also the launch point for the San Fermín fireworks every night at 11 pm in July. Stake out a spot on the inner ramparts an hour early for an unobstructed overhead view.
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