Étretat Cliffs & the Aval Arch
The chalk cliffs of Étretat are Normandy's most dramatic natural stage — three arches, a needle rock and a 70-metre drop to the pebble beach below. Monet painted them obsessively, and one look explains why: the light here shifts from pearl-grey to blazing white within minutes.
The Aval Viewpoint Walk
From the beach, a well-signed path climbs steeply to the right (west) up to the Falaise d'Aval viewpoint. The walk takes about 20 minutes and rewards you with a direct sightline through the Porte d'Aval arch to the free-standing Aiguille (Needle) rock rising 70 metres from the sea.
The best light is in the late afternoon when the sun swings west and the chalk glows almost orange. Bring a wide-angle lens or use portrait mode on your phone — the arch frames perfectly from the clifftop.
Les Jardins d'Étretat & the Town
Just above the Falaise d'Aval path, Les Jardins d'Étretat is a contemporary sculpture garden designed by landscape artist Alexandre Grivko. Geometric topiary spills over the clifftop in surreal shapes, and the garden's terrace gives arguably the best composed view of both arches simultaneously.
The town itself is small and easily walkable. Les Halles market square has a handful of good seafood restaurants — try moules marinières with local Pays de Caux cider rather than wine for a properly Norman lunch.
Étretat gets crowded in July and August; a weekday visit in May, June or September gives you the cliffs almost to yourself and the gorse in full yellow bloom.
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