The Medieval Old Town Caruggi
While day-trippers funnel straight to the beach, the tightly woven caruggi — the narrow medieval alleyways of Monterosso's old town — remain surprisingly quiet and genuinely atmospheric. Terracotta-potted geraniums cascade from window sills, laundry flutters between ochre walls and the smell of focaccia drifts from bakery vents.
Navigating the Old Quarter
The old town sits on the eastern side of the rocky headland and is centred on the 13th-century Church of San Giovanni Battista, whose black-and-white striped Gothic facade is one of the finest examples of Ligurian Gothic architecture in the region. Step inside for the cool, incense-scented interior and a beautiful rose window.
From the church, follow Via Molinelli uphill past crumbling medieval towers and tiny vegetable gardens tucked between houses. The neighbourhood becomes progressively quieter and more residential the higher you climb, and locals wave from doorways rather than trying to sell you limoncello.
Look for the Oratorio dei Neri, a small confraternity chapel on Via Roma decorated with 17th-century processional artwork — it is rarely mentioned in guidebooks and almost never crowded.
Evening Passeggiata Culture
Between 6 pm and 8 pm the old-town waterfront transforms into a slow-moving passeggiata, with families, fishermen and a handful of lucky tourists strolling the narrow lungomare as the fishing boats bob in the tiny harbour. This is the real social hour of Monterosso.
Pull up a stool at one of the harbour-side bars, order a Campari spritz or a glass of local Vermentino and watch the light turn the church facade from white to gold to deep amber. No itinerary required — this is just what evenings in Liguria look like.
More of Monterosso al Mare
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Monterosso al Mare →
