Osteria Tyrol – Ladin Cuisine in Moena
Moena is the self-declared 'Fata delle Dolomiti' (Fairy of the Dolomites) and also the heartland of Ladin culture, a Romance-language minority whose cooking is unlike anything else in Italy. Osteria Tyrol on Via Someda is one of the most consistent addresses in town for honest, ingredient-led Ladin food in a low-beamed, candle-lit dining room.
What to Order
Start with puzzone di Moena, the valley's pungent washed-rind cheese — legally protected as a DOP product — served warm on dark rye bread. It smells confrontational but tastes nutty and complex in the best possible way. Follow it with crafuns, the Ladin version of stuffed pasta filled with ricotta, spinach and a whisper of cinnamon.
For a main, the slow-braised venison with polenta and wild mushrooms is a benchmark dish; the game is sourced from local hunters and the polenta is stone-ground from Storo maize, giving it a coarser, more flavourful texture than the supermarket kind.
Schüttelbrot and Local Wine
Bread here comes as schüttelbrot — the thin, crisp rye flatbread flavoured with caraway and fennel that you find across the Ladin valleys. It arrives at the table gratis and it is almost impossible not to eat the entire basket before your starter arrives.
The wine list leans into Trentino DOC whites: a Pinot Grigio from the Adige valley or a Nosiola — a rare indigenous grape with a pleasantly bitter almond finish — pairs beautifully with the cheese courses.
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