Modena Cathedral & Ghirlandina Tower
Modena's Romanesque cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so finely carved that medieval stonemasons are still identifiable by name. Climb the adjacent Ghirlandina tower and the entire Po Plain unfolds below you.
The Cathedral Itself
Begun in 1099 by master builder Lanfranco and sculptor Wiligelmo, the Duomo di Modena is considered one of the purest examples of Romanesque architecture in Italy. Wiligelmo's bas-reliefs along the façade depict Genesis scenes with an almost comic-strip energy that feels surprisingly modern.
Inside, the crypt holds the remains of San Geminiano, Modena's patron saint, in a luminous marble sanctuary. The dim nave, lit by alabaster windows, rewards slow, quiet looking — bring binoculars for the carved column capitals.
Climbing the Ghirlandina
The 86-metre tower beside the cathedral has been the city's civic landmark since the 13th century. The climb (around 200 steps, partially via steep ladders) passes the famous Secchia Rapita — a wooden bucket stolen from Bologna in 1325 that sparked a legendary war and inspired an epic poem.
From the top, on clear winter mornings, the Alps are visible to the north and the Apennines to the south. The view over the terracotta rooftops of the old town is the best free composition in Modena for photography.
Piazza Grande Below
The cathedral fronts Piazza Grande, a living square where locals sit on the cathedral steps at aperitivo hour just as they have for centuries. The surrounding loggia of the Palazzo Comunale frames the scene perfectly.
On the third weekend of each month an antique and collectibles market fills the piazza, making it worth timing your visit accordingly.
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