Sentiero del Viandante: Mandello to Varenna Stage
The Sentiero del Viandante is a centuries-old wayfarers' path that traces the eastern shore of Lake Como from Lecco to Colico, and the stage running north from Mandello del Lario to Varenna is widely considered the most scenically rewarding stretch of the entire route. Stone-paved mule track, chestnut forest, olive terraces and sudden lake panoramas follow each other in rapid succession.
The Route
From Mandello's train station, the signed CAI path climbs immediately into terraced hillside above the lake, passing the hamlets of Rongio and Olcio before entering a cool chestnut and oak forest. The trail is well-maintained and clearly waymarked with red-and-white CAI blazes throughout.
After roughly 2.5 hours of walking (approximately 10 km, 500 m elevation gain and loss) the path descends into Varenna, arguably the most beautiful village on Lake Como, where a well-earned aperitivo on the waterfront feels like a reward entirely proportionate to the effort.
What Makes This Stage Special
Unlike the western shore's busy SS340 road, this eastern trail is almost entirely traffic-free and passes through landscapes that have changed little since medieval merchants walked the same stones. You'll pass dry-stone walls, abandoned terraces reclaimed by wild fig trees and occasional stone drinking fountains fed by mountain springs.
The section above Olcio opens onto a wide balcony view of the lake's central basin — Bellagio's wooded promontory appears directly opposite, the Alps frame the northern horizon and on clear days Monte Rosa's snowfields are visible far to the northwest. It is the kind of view that makes you stop walking and simply stare.
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