Focaccia at Antico Forno della Casana, Genoa
Ligurian focaccia — fugassa in dialect — is a completely different beast from its Pugliese cousin: thinner, crispier at the edges, drenched in local olive oil and dimpled with sea salt. Antico Forno della Casana, a tiny bakery in the heart of Genoa's medieval caruggi, has been pulling trays from its wood-fired oven since the early 20th century, and the queue outside at 8 am tells you everything yo
What to Order
The plain focaccia al olio is the purist's choice — golden, salty, with a slightly chewy crumb and shatteringly crisp underside. Order it by weight (roughly €2.50 per 100g) and eat it standing at the counter while it is still warm enough to leave an oil stain on the paper wrapping.
For something more indulgent, ask for focaccia col formaggio di Recco — paper-thin unleavened dough sandwiching molten crescenza cheese, baked until blistered and bubbling. It is legally a product of Recco (30 km east) but good Genoese bakeries do their own fine version.
The Caruggi Context
The bakery sits in the caruggi, Genoa's labyrinthine medieval alleyways — a UNESCO-listed historic centre that is the largest surviving medieval urban fabric in Europe. Navigating these narrow lanes to find your focaccia is half the pleasure; follow the smell of olive oil and you will rarely go wrong.
Pair a slice with a small glass of cold Vermentino from the wine bar next door, or dip it into a cup of latte macchiato as Genoese workers do every morning — one of the most satisfying €4 breakfasts in Italy.
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