Restaurante Mesón La Muralla
Installed in a converted stone building hard against the old town wall, Mesón La Muralla is the kind of unfussy, family-run restaurant that serious food travellers cross regions to find — serving honest Extremaduran cooking with ingredients sourced almost entirely within 30 km of the kitchen.
What to order
Start with migas extremeñas — fried breadcrumbs tossed with chorizo, bacon and grapes — a dish that sounds rustic and tastes revelatory. Follow it with the caldereta de cordero, a slow-braised lamb stew made with local wine and pimentón de la Vera that has been on the menu here for decades. The lamb comes from the Merino flocks that graze the surrounding dehesa and has a depth of flavour you simply do not find in supermarket meat.
The house wine is a young Ribera del Guadiana red — robust, slightly tannic and exactly right with the stew. Finish with leche frita, a fried custard square dusted with cinnamon sugar that is simultaneously crisp and molten. A three-course menú del día with wine and bread costs around €13 on weekday lunchtimes.
Atmosphere and practicalities
The dining room is low-ceilinged and stone-walled, hung with old agricultural tools and black-and-white photographs of the town. Tables are covered in paper cloths and the service is warm and unhurried — this is a place where lunch is expected to last two hours and nobody will rush you.
Booking is advisable on Sunday lunchtimes, when local families fill every table. The restaurant is on Calle Templarios, a two-minute walk from the castle — making it the natural endpoint of a morning spent exploring the old town.
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