Trattoria da Enzo – Ciociaro Soul Food
A handful of no-frills trattorias in Frosinone's upper town still cook the way nonnas did, and Da Enzo is the name locals whisper when visitors ask where to eat properly. Expect hand-rolled pasta, slow-braised meats and a house wine poured from unlabelled carafes without apology.
What to Order
Start with the antipasto ciociaro: a wooden board of local salumi, including slow-cured soppressata and lardo di Colonnata-style fatback, served with schiacciata bread still warm from the oven.
The signature primo is sagne 'mpastare — wide, rough-edged pasta ribbons tossed with a sauce of dried legumes, guanciale and a thread of peperoncino oil. It is hearty, earthy and deeply satisfying in a way that no amount of restaurant polish can replicate.
The Secondi and the Wine
For the main course, the abbacchio alla cacciatora (hunter's-style lamb braised with rosemary, white wine and anchovies) is the dish to order when it appears on the daily blackboard — it usually does on weekends.
The carafe wine is a local Cesanese del Piglio DOC, grown just 20 kilometres north in the Piglio hills; it is ruby, slightly tannic and the ideal foil for fatty cured meats. A full meal with wine rarely exceeds €25 per person.
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