La Merenda, Nice
There are no credit cards, no phone reservations and only 24 covers at La Merenda — but this pocket-sized restaurant in the heart of Vieux-Nice serves some of the most honest, technically brilliant Niçois cooking in existence. Former Negresco head chef Dominique Le Stanc walked away from haute cuisine to run this place, and it shows in every bowl of daube and every plate of pasta with pistou.
What to Order
The menu changes with the market and the season, but certain dishes are near-permanent fixtures: tripe à la Niçoise slow-cooked with tomato and olives, stockfish (dried cod) stewed in the Niçois style, and the silky chickpea-flour socca-adjacent dish called panisse served as a side. Dessert is typically a simple tarte au citron or panna cotta — nothing fussy, everything correct.
Portions are generous and the wine list is short, regional and fairly priced. A carafe of Bellet — the tiny, little-exported AOC wine grown on the hills directly above Nice — is the ideal accompaniment and a conversation piece in itself.
How to Secure a Table
Because there is no phone, you must reserve in person by turning up at the restaurant, which opens for lunch service around noon. The owners keep a paper reservations book and tables for that evening or the following days can usually be secured if you arrive early enough. It sounds like a hassle; it is absolutely worth it.
La Merenda is located at 4 Rue Raoul Bosio, a narrow lane a short walk from the Cours Saleya market. The restaurant closes on weekends and for a long summer break in August, so check current opening days before planning your visit.
More of French Riviera (Côte d'Azur)
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore French Riviera (Côte d'Azur) →
