La Maison Carrier, Argentière
Tucked into a restored 17th-century farmhouse in the hamlet of Les Bossons on the road to Argentière, La Maison Carrier is the definitive address for traditional Savoyard cuisine in the Mont Blanc valley. Chef Michel Carrier serves the kind of tartiflette, fondue and croûte au fromage that reminds you why Alpine cooking became famous in the first place.
What to Order
Start with the house charcuterie board — a slate loaded with house-cured diots, lardo, smoked duck and cornichons — before moving to the tartiflette royale, a bubbling gratin of Reblochon fermier, lardons and waxy Bintje potatoes baked in a cast-iron dish. It arrives at the table still hissing and is large enough to share between two people who have just come off a mountain.
In winter, the fondue Savoyarde (a blend of Beaufort, Comté and Emmental melted with dry white Apremont wine and a splash of Génépi) is the obvious centrepiece. Order the fondue Bacchus if you want the Burgundy-wine-and-beef variation — it is slower, richer and worth every minute of the wait.
The Room & the Atmosphere
The dining room occupies the original hay barn: exposed stone walls, low oak beams blackened by two centuries of woodsmoke, cowbells hanging from iron hooks, and a roaring central fireplace in winter. It seats around 60 and fills up fast; the noise level by 20:00 is joyful and convivial rather than oppressive.
In summer a terrace opens at the back with a direct view up to the Bossons Glacier — one of the few glaciers in the Alps that descends to below 1,000 metres and is visible from a restaurant table. Order the house Apremont white wine from the Combe de Savoie and let the evening stretch.
Booking & Getting There
Reservations are essential, especially on weekends from December to April and July to August. Book via the restaurant's website or by phone; a two-week advance booking is advisable in peak season.
La Maison Carrier is on the Route des Pèlerins in Les Bossons, roughly 3 km south of central Chamonix — a €10 taxi ride or a 20-minute walk along the valley path. The restaurant is closed on Tuesdays.
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