Hidden gem · Étretat

Valleuse d'Antifer & Plage de Tilleul

Seven kilometres north of Étretat along the GR21 coastal path, a steep chalk valley — a valleuse — cuts down to a wild, almost completely deserted pebble beach at Tilleul. There are no beach bars, no car park right beside it and no souvenir shops: just white cliffs, green clifftops and the sound of the English Channel.

Valleuse d'Antifer & Plage de Tilleul
Photo by Teddy CHARTI on Pexels
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Getting there on foot

From Étretat's Falaise d'Amont, follow the GR21 north along the clifftop. The path is well-marked with red-and-white blazes and stays close to the cliff edge, giving continuous sea views. Allow 1.5–2 hours one-way at a comfortable walking pace.

The descent into the valleuse is via a narrow chalk path that can be slippery after rain — walking poles help. At the bottom you reach a broad pebble beach backed by towering white cliffs that see almost no visitors even in peak summer.

The beach and its character

Plage de Tilleul is backed by the hamlet of Le Tilleul, reachable by road from the D940, which means you can also drive to within a short walk of the beach if a full hike isn't on the agenda — but most day-trippers don't bother, which is exactly why it stays quiet.

The swimming is good at low tide when a shelf of smooth pebbles gives way to clear, if cold, water. The cliffs here are unguarded and the solitude is real — bring everything you need including water and a picnic.

Combining with a longer loop

The most satisfying way to visit is as part of a circular route: walk north from Étretat along the clifftop, descend to Tilleul for a picnic, then return inland via the D940 road and a quiet lane back into town — roughly 15 km total.

Le Tilleul village has a small épicerie where you can pick up drinks and basics, and a handful of gîtes if you want to base yourself here for a night of true Norman quiet.

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