Trattoria del Molo, Dongo
Sitting almost on the water's edge near Dongo's ferry landing, Trattoria del Molo is the kind of place that has been feeding fishermen, ferry workers and knowing visitors for decades — a no-frills dining room that lets the quality of upper-lake fish do the talking. The missoltin (dried agoni fish) here is among the best on the lake.
What to order
Start with the antipasto di lago — a rotating plate of preserved lake fish that typically includes missoltini dressed with oil and sage, marinated lavarello (whitefish) carpaccio, and a small crock of fish-based spread on grilled polenta. It is the most honest introduction to upper Como's culinary identity you will find.
For a main, the risotto al pesce persico (perch risotto) is made with fish caught in the lake itself; the kitchen keeps it simple — butter, white wine, a little saffron — because the fish needs no embellishment.
If the chalkboard lists agone fritto (fried fresh agoni), order it: these small, silver lake fish are dredged in fine cornmeal and fried until crackling, served with a wedge of lemon and nothing else. They are addictive.
The room and the rhythm
The interior is all checked tablecloths, framed black-and-white photographs of the lake and a wine list that leans heavily on Valtellina Superiore DOCG reds — the Sassella and Grumello designations pair beautifully with freshwater fish in a way that surprises most visitors expecting white wine.
Service is unhurried in the best Italian sense: nobody will rush you, the bread basket will be refilled without asking, and the owner will likely come to the table to explain what was caught that morning.
Book a table on the small terrace for lunch if the weather allows — the view across the lake toward the Tremezzina shore is worth the extra five minutes it takes to call ahead.
More of Dongo
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Dongo →
