Trattoria del Vapore
Tucked into a narrow alley just steps from Cernobbio's ferry landing, Trattoria del Vapore has been feeding lake fishermen, silk merchants and the occasional celebrity since the 19th century — and the kitchen still cooks with the same honest conviction. Order the risotto con filetti di pesce persico (perch fillet risotto) and you'll understand why regulars drive here from Milan.
The menu and the kitchen's philosophy
The menu is short, seasonal and unapologetically Lombard: lake perch in butter and sage, missoltini (dried agoni with polenta), braised rabbit with olives and a silky pumpkin risotto in autumn. Pasta is made in-house each morning and the bread arrives warm from a local bakery in Como.
The wine list leans heavily on northern Italian bottles — Valtellina Superiore Sassella, Franciacorta for bubbles, and a short but well-chosen selection of Piedmontese reds. The house white, a crisp Lugana from the southern shore of Garda, is the perfect aperitivo pour on the terrace.
Atmosphere and logistics
The interior is all dark wood, framed black-and-white photographs of the old steamboat era and checked tablecloths — zero pretension, maximum comfort. In summer a handful of tables spill onto the alley outside, close enough to the water to hear the ferries dock.
Lunch is the preferred meal here; the kitchen closes at 2:30 p.m. sharp and the dining room empties quickly as locals return to their afternoon. Book ahead for Friday and Saturday evenings, when the place fills with Como-city residents making the short trip across the lake.
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