Pulpería Xulia, Cangas
Galicia is the undisputed capital of pulpo á feira — boiled octopus dressed with olive oil, coarse salt and smoked paprika — and Pulpería Xulia in Cangas is one of the most celebrated places on the Morrazo peninsula to eat it. The recipe has not changed in decades, and neither has the loyal crowd of locals who pack the wooden tables every weekend.
The Dish and How It Is Made
The octopus arrives on a round wooden board (the traditional cachelo board), sliced into thick coins and dusted with pimentón de la Vera. It is served alongside boiled cachelos — waxy Galician potatoes — and a basket of crusty bread to mop up the oil. The texture, when done right, is tender without being mushy, with a slight chew that speaks to careful boiling and resting.
The pulpeiras (octopus cooks) at Xulia use copper cauldrons, a tradition believed to give the flesh a better colour and texture than modern steel pots. Watching the process from the open kitchen counter is half the experience.
What Else to Order
Beyond pulpo, the kitchen turns out excellent pimientos de Padrón (small green peppers blistered in olive oil, some fiery, most mild), caldo galego (a hearty broth of greens, beans and pork) and grilled sardines when in season between June and September.
The house Albariño is poured cold and young from a large earthenware jug — order it by the ration (a shared jug) rather than by the glass and you will feel entirely local. Finish with a shot of orujo, the fiery Galician pomace spirit, offered complimentary at many traditional pulperías.
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