Au Côté d'Argent
Perched right on the edge of the Calais fishing harbour, Au Côté d'Argent has been serving the city's finest plateau de fruits de mer and steaming pots of moules marinières since 1931. It's the kind of place where the fish was swimming this morning and the chips are cooked in beef dripping — a true northern French institution.
What to Order
The moules marinières are the non-negotiable order: a full kilo of plump Channel mussels in a white wine, shallot and cream broth, served with a mountain of hand-cut frites. The broth alone, soaked up with crusty bread, is worth the trip.
For a more ambitious meal, the plateau de fruits de mer for two arrives on a tiered ice stand loaded with Normandy oysters, langoustines, whelks, brown shrimp and half a lobster. Order 24 hours ahead and it becomes the centrepiece of a genuinely memorable lunch.
The Setting
The restaurant occupies a classic brasserie room with white-tiled walls, bentwood chairs and windows looking directly onto the fishing quay where trawlers unload. On fine days, the terrace puts you close enough to smell the sea air and watch the boats come and go.
Service is brisk and unapologetically French — don't expect lengthy menu explanations, but do expect your glass to be refilled promptly and the bread basket to appear without asking.
Booking and Practicalities
Lunch is the prime meal here; the kitchen runs from noon to 14 h 30 and fills up fast on Saturdays, especially in July and August. Reservations by phone are strongly advised for weekend visits.
The restaurant is at 1 Rue de la Mer, a 5-minute walk from the Hôtel de Ville and the Rodin sculpture, making it a natural anchor for a morning of sightseeing followed by a long, leisurely seafood lunch.
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