Sella del Diavolo (Devil's Saddle)
Legend says the devil himself shaped this limestone headland when he fell from his horse after being cast out of heaven — and standing on the ridge with the Gulf of Angels spread below you, it's easy to believe something extraordinary happened here. The Sella del Diavolo is Cagliari's finest natural viewpoint and one of the most rewarding short hikes in southern Sardinia.
The Hike: Short, Scenic, Spectacular
The most popular route is a 6.4 km loop starting from the car park at Calamosca beach, climbing roughly 128 metres through Mediterranean scrub — European fan palms, junipers and wild olive trees — past the Torre di Sant'Elia watchtower and up to the narrow saddle ridge at around 138 metres above sea level.
The ascent takes about 40–60 minutes at a relaxed pace, and the payoff is immediate: a 360° panorama stretching from Cagliari's old town and its terracotta rooftops to the white expanse of Poetto Beach, the hidden cove of Cala Fighera, and the Capo Sant'Elia lighthouse. At the summit you'll also find the remains of a Punic temple and an old cistern.
Wildlife, Wildflowers and the Right Time to Go
The headland shelters rare birds including peregrine falcons, kestrels and Sardinian partridges. In spring the trail is lined with wildflowers; in summer, swarms of dragonflies accompany you near the top. The limestone can be slippery after rain, so sturdy shoes are non-negotiable year-round.
Sunrise and the hour before sunset are the two magic windows: the light turns the Gulf of Angels a deep cobalt and the city glows below. From the summit, a 30-minute walk brings you down to Poetto Beach — the perfect excuse for a post-hike swim and a cold Ichnusa beer.
Getting There Without a Car
From central Cagliari, take CTM bus line 11 (or the Zeus 5/11 service) from San Bartolomeo — journey time is around 25–30 minutes to the Calamosca beach trailhead. A free car park sits at the beach if you're driving.
The trail is well-marked with occasional red waypoints and an information board at the trailhead. There is almost no shade on the upper section, so bring at least 1.5 litres of water per person and apply sunscreen liberally before you start.
Sella del Diavolo (Devil's Saddle) on video
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