Metzgerei Moser (Moser Butcher & Deli)
For the definitive introduction to South Tyrolean speck — the lightly smoked, mountain-air-cured ham that is the region's most iconic product — Metzgerei Moser on Via Centrale has been the go-to address for Brunico locals for generations. The smell of smoked pork and alpine herbs hits you before you even reach the door.
What Makes South Tyrolean Speck Different
Unlike Parma ham, which is purely salt-cured, speck Alto Adige IGP alternates between dry-salting with a blend of salt, pepper, rosemary, bay and juniper, and cold-smoking over beech and mountain pine. The hams then air-cure for a minimum of 22 weeks in the mountain breeze, developing a firm, dark rind and a nutty, complex interior.
At Moser, the counter staff will cut you a paper-thin tasting slice before you commit to buying, and they are happy to explain the difference between their various grades and ageing times — ask for the riserva if it's available.
What Else to Buy
Beyond speck, the deli counter runs to Kaminwurzen (thin, intensely smoky beef-and-pork sausages eaten cold), Graukäse (a sharp, almost fat-free grey cheese from the Ahrntal valley) and house-made Schlutzkrapfen pasta filled with spinach and ricotta, sold fresh to take away.
A vacuum-packed 200 g slab of speck travels well and makes an exceptional edible souvenir; the staff will advise on whether your destination country permits cured-meat imports.
Eating In and Around Brunico
For a sit-down speck experience, head to Gasthof Oberraut in the Amaten district just outside Brunico, a farmhouse restaurant that has been serving traditional Tyrolean cuisine since 1620 and where the speck board arrives with dark rye bread, butter and pickled gherkins as a matter of course.
The weekly Thursday market on Piazza Municipio also has a dedicated speck and cheese stall run by local farmers from the Ahrntal and Gsiesertal valleys — prices are lower than the delis and the product is just as good.
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