Buca Mario
Founded in 1886 in a vaulted cellar just steps from Piazza della Repubblica, Buca Mario is the oldest restaurant in Florence still operating under its original name — and unlike many historic institutions, it has not coasted on reputation. The ribollita here is the benchmark version, and the bistecca alla Fiorentina is sourced from certified Chianina cattle.
What to Order
Start with the crostini neri — chicken-liver pâté on grilled bread — a dish that appears on virtually every Florentine table but achieves particular depth here, with a hit of anchovy and vin santo in the finish. Follow with the ribollita, a thick bread-and-cavolo-nero soup that arrives in a terracotta bowl with a drizzle of raw olive oil so green it looks almost unreal.
The bistecca alla Fiorentina is the main event: a T-bone from a Chianina steer, at least 4cm thick, grilled over oak charcoal and served rare — always rare, non-negotiably rare. Order it by weight (typically 800g–1.2kg) and share between two. A carafe of Chianti Classico from the house list is the only accompaniment you need.
The Room and the History
The dining room is a proper underground cantina: low brick arches, bentwood chairs, white paper over the tablecloths, and walls hung with photographs of the dignitaries and artists who have eaten here over 130 years. It manages to feel historic without being stuffy or museum-like.
Buca Mario sits on Piazza Ottaviani, a two-minute walk from the Duomo and five minutes from the Uffizi, making it a logical anchor for a day of sightseeing. Book ahead for dinner; lunch walk-ins are usually possible on weekdays.
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